Crete - Heraklion

... so we booked a week's vacation in Crete, made up of three parts: Heraklion /Gazi; the bay of Finix (sort of the other side of Loutro); and Xania, a.k.a. Chania, or Khania, take your pick.

First of all I must confess that I hadn't done my homework for this trip. I was still trying to get as much of my Georgia experiences down in writing, while keeping up with yoga and other daily activities and also trying to finish reading a very moving memoir-novel (long story, will elaborate later on my other blog, Take Nina's Word for it.) So I didn't even peek at the two tourist guidebooks about Greece - the Michelin and the Baedeker's, which we probably bought before one of our previous Greece trips. I also dug out my handwritten travel journal from August 1999 and read it, to refresh my memory... For example, how to order my coffee: "Cafe frappe sketo, me gala, parakalo." Even though that caused waiters, both then and now, to roll their eyes at me in disbelief...

So I still hardly know a thing about the history of the places we visited. Except for the fact that Crete had undergone many wars, fighting for dominion over their land but being conquered and governed by Rome, the Arabs, the Byzantines,Venetians, the Ottoman Turks, and I've probably left out some conquerer or other. You want history? Go to Wiki or the University of Crete, for example. It's not that I enjoy being ignorant, god forbid; but what with recently learning about the wars that ravaged Georgia, and what with the seemingly pointless and endless fighting along the Gaza border, I just want to escape war and focus on peace, fellowship, camaraderie, and goodwill. All of which I found in today's Crete.

The accommodations we booked in Gazi, just outside Heraklion, were actually a B&B place which belongs to the Georgia Hotel. We hadn't been aware of that. So if you go to the hotel website and look at pics of the rooms, keep in mind that they are far more luxurious than the plain, basic B&B located in a separate building right by the hotel. All we had to do is walk out of the building, make a right, walk through a small parking lot, and emerge in the lovely garden of the hotel:

Georgia Hotel garden & pool

I didn't even bother taking a picture of our room... Plain white walls, plain wooden wardrobe, bed, night-tables. A very hard mattress. But it did have a kitchenette, complete with fridge and electric plate, which one could use to prepare/store food.
If we ever visit the place again, I'd probably go for the double room with a sea view... Or the Studio. But as it was, I can't complain: we were entitled to all the hotel's amenities and services, provided by a friendly, charming and helpful staff, such as Elisabet and Mira, to name but two.

Georgia Hotel breakfast buffet

Georgia Hotel pool, bar in the background

The pool was inviting, but I declined. The beach was just around the corner, but I wasn't interested. All I wanted was to relax, enjoy the fresh, flavorful food, savour the local beer (Mythos or Alfa), and unwind. Oh - and drive into Heraklion, for some shopping...

Re shopping: Generally speaking, Greece isn't the ideal place for shopping. Yes, if you want a cheap beach towel or basic food, you'll do fine, so long as you buy it in the village market rather than in the arty boutiques within the walls of the Old City. But I was looking for Marks & Spencer. I knew exactly what I wanted: a couple of pairs of cotton/linen shorts. Plus M&S knickers, which are the best in the world as far as I'm concerned. While M wanted summer socks. But Alas! The M&S store was relatively small. No socks. No knickers (just as well -- I have plenty...) and only one pair of shorts in my size. Which I promptly purchased.
Next on my list was a one-piece high-neck bathing-suit, not because I'm shy or particularly modest, but to protect my sensitive skin. Online research showed that a shop called Cosmos Sport had a decent selection, but instead of systematically looking for it, I went into the nearest alternative, InterSport, and a sweet salesgirl helped me choose a flattering yet comfortable Arena swimsuit. Sorry to say the neckline is not high enough to protect my delicate decollete, but I said to myself that, if push came to shove, I'd just wear a T-shirt over it. (Which I did not. Though the sun was definitely "pushy" enough.)

Then we just wandered about with the general flow of tourists, and found ourselves in a picturesque maze of cafes, near a small public garden. One place in particular caught my eye:

Swing Thing Cocktail Espresso Bar, Heraklion

Swing Thing Cocktail Espresso Bar, Heraklion

I peeked in. "Yes, we've got air-conditioning!" Said the charming Helen. - "And a toilet?" I asked hopefully. "Yes, we have everything!" she retorted brightly. And good food. And good music.
Wow, was it ever perfect! The toast, the frappe, and the Hang On Little Tomato, by Pink Martini.
Unfortunately I can't make any comments on the booze, since I didn't have any, simply because it's not my thing (as opposed to swing...) But judging by other customers' comments on Swing Thing's Facebook page, if you appreciate a good bar and a real pro of a barman, you're in for a treat.

Still with me? Great! I'm looking forward to writing and uploading my next post - The Old Phoenix.